Black Pepper

Black pepper has always played second banana to its tablemate, salt, the most widely used seasoning. number two black pepper, has pretty much been available in basic black, whereas salt has given us as many choices as there are cable channels from pink Murray River salt from Australia to fleurs …

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Wine Recommendations – September 2016

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 Since the beginning of 2016, I’ve been writing a restaurant review column for my Philadelphia neighborhood weekly newspaper, the Chestnut Hill Local. The MacGuffin (sometimes McGuffin), as Alfred Hitchcock used to say, is that all the restaurants are BYO (or BYOB), meaning they don’t have liquor licenses. BYO restaurants are as …

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Home Cooking At Russet

Russet pic-scallops

The term “home cooking” usually denotes the satisfying comfort food mom used to make. But unless your mom was Julia Child, she didn’t cook with the complexity and sophistication of chef Andrew Wood and his wife, pastry chef Kristin Wood, owners of Russet in Center City, Philadelphia. Take the silky, …

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Tomatoes

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  Eberhard Muller is a tomato fanatic. The former chef Lutèce, Le Bernardin, and Bayard owns, with his wife Paulette Satur, Satur Farms, on Long Island’s North Fork. Muller says, “When we eat tomatoes, we don’t eat anywhere else except home. I pick them right before I eat. It’s fantastic.” …

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