Once upon a time, if your waiter said the fish was fresh today, that was enough. Now it has to be “line-caught” or perhaps escorted to shore by a flotilla of rowboats. The same goes for scallops. Today, the operative words for fresh scallops are “day boat” and “diver” with …

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a mano shank

The restaurant’s name is A Mano (by hand), but maybe it should be called Il Segreto (the secret). Because, as of this writing, there is no menu on the web site. Or web site. Or sign on this small corner space at 23rd and Fairmount. A Mano doesn’t take reservations. …

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Cooked Greens


With some notable ethnic exceptions like Asians, non-Italians are real Johnny-come-latelies when it comes to appreciating hearty greens like broccoli raab and dandelion. But I’ve enjoyed these greens—which I call “cooked” greens to distinguish them from “salad” greens—since I was a kid. As soon as the snow cleared in Buffalo, …

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