Fresh Mozzarella? fuggedaboudit


For most folks, mozzarella means pizza covered with a gooey melted mass of cheese appreciated more for elasticity than flavor. Like cheddar, mozzarella—second to cheddar as America’s most popular cheese—has been industrialized. Today the vast majority of mozzarella is lifeless and rubbery with a shelf life measured in presidential terms. …

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cheese board from

When I told my wife I was writing a column about buying cheese, she said, “What’s to know? You just go out and buy it, right?” Unfortunately, the cheese explosion of the past decade or so has created the enviable dilemma of more cheese– in volume, variety and quality—than ever …

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Piedmont Cheeses

Piedmont Cheese, Bra Duro

Of the 52 Italian cheeses listed on the web site of Cambridge, Mass retailer Formaggio Kitchen (, 23 are from Piedmont. “Every town produces the most amazing cheeses,” says owner Ihsan Gurdal, who describes Piedmont cheeses as  “much more refined than any other area of Italy.” The cheeses may be …

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Grating Cheeses: Grate Expectations

grating cheese

A grating cheese isn’t one that annoys you but rather an aged, hard cheese that can be finely shredded. The quintessential grating cheese is Parmigiano-Reggiano, but there are other grate cheeses, including Grana Padano, Parmigiano’s less pricy cousin, other aged cow’s milk cheeses, such as Gouda, sheep’s milk cheeses such …

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Triple Cream Cheeses: Triple Play

runny cheese

I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve written about American food products catching up to (and sometimes surpassing) the benchmarks from Europe. The most recent American big dog is triple-cream cheeses, which is a group as rich and decadent as it sounds. It comes as no surprise that …

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