Cooking Lobster; Corn Chowder with Lobster

LOBSTERS: THE CLAWS THAT REFRESH

This article first appeared in my
Tastes column in the Wine Spectator.

It includes a recipe for
Corn Chowder with Lobster.

It's hard to imagine that lobster, a symbol of extravagance, was once so abundant that fishermen used it for bait. Today, lobster is "one of the big glamour foods," says Jasper White, a former restaurant chef and author of "Lobster at Home."

One reason why we glamorize lobster is that we don't have it often. When we do, we either usually pay a hefty price for someone else to fix it for us in a restaurant, or we agonize over how to prepare it properly at home. (Remember Woody Allen's hilarious lobster cooking scene in "Annie Hall"?) In both cases, there's that whole lobster-eating ritual, like a crustacean high mass replete with vestments (bibs), anointing liquid (drawn butter) and assorted relics (lobster crackers, tiny forks). In some ways, the summer lobster feast mirrors the entertaining to come later at Thanksgiving.

Another reason for lobster's appeal is its special flavor. "Lobsters take in a lot of salt (from the sea) because they're constantly shedding the shells. So they're very sweet. It's like putting salt or prosciutto on melon. The salt brings out the sweetness," White says. I'd add that lobster is rich, almost luxuriant, without being heavy. Despite some misconceptions, lobster is low in fat, calories, and cholesterol.

Homarus americanus, as the North American lobster is fondly called, can be found in Atlantic waters from North Carolina to Newfoundland. (Spiny or rock lobsters, used mainly for their tails, are from warmer climates.) Like crabs, lobsters shed their shells regularly. Until they harden, their new shells are fleshy soft. New-shell lobsters (also known as shedders or soft shells) are mainly consumed in New England because they don't ship well. White thinks the meat in new-shell lobsters, which don't have to be cracked, is as good as that from the more common hard-shell lobsters, maybe better. "That salty sweet thing happens big time with softies," he says, though soft shells are less versatile. They're too delicate to grill, for example. But Bill Bowers, who buys seafood for Jake's Fish Market in New York, says, "soft shells have no flavor, they're all water."

From July to October, while we wait for the new shells to harden on lobsters caught off warmer American shores, hard-shell lobsters must be brought in from further out into the Atlantic or in Canada where the water is colder. When new-shell lobsters become hard-shell ones from October to mid January we get the best supply, and often the best price. Afterwards, lobsters are penned up in cages off shore and doled out during late winter and early spring, the worst time to buy lobster. The flavor isn't as good because the lobsters are not out in the wild eating their normal diet. Quality for hard-shell lobsters picks up again in May and June when lobsters have the most meat just before molting.

Many hard-shell lobsters are sold from holding tanks in seafood stores and supermarkets. As Mark Bittman writes in his book "Fish," "Lobsters begin to die the minute they leave the sea; holding tanks just delay the process." For the freshest lobsters, find a retailer who sells a lot of them. Otherwise, check the lobster's antennae. "Because lobsters aren't fed sufficiently in tanks, they eat each others antennae for food. If they have long, beautiful antennae, they haven't been in the tank very long," White says. Lobsters should also have a lively disposition; a flapping tail is a good sign.

How much lobster you need depends on how it is going to be used. If lobster is the main event, two pounds per person is in order. For dishes like pasta with lobster sauce or a lobster stir fry, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds per person is sufficient. Though same day consumption is best, lobsters can survive a few days under refrigeration, but only if allowed to breathe. Store them in a paper bag left partially open or poked with holes. Though it seems counterintuitive, take the lobsters out of the shopping bag by the claws, which are secured with thick rubber bands. "The tails can flap up and cut your finger," Bowers says.

For grilling, stir-frys, and other dishes which require pieces, the lobster should first be killed. The simplest way to do this is to plunge a sharp chef's knife at a cross mark on top of the lobster, a few inches directly behind the eyes. Then you can split the lobster in half. Remove the head sac in back of the eyes and the thin beige intestine, which runs along the meat of the tail. The light green tomalley, the pancreas and liver right behind the head sack, can also be removed for sauces and dips. Because the tomalley is the filter for impurities, the Maine Lobster Promotion Council advises against eating it. Not White. "I always use it, sometimes to mix with dipping butter. That way you get a taste with every bite. Sometimes I'll save up a bunch in the freezer and make a spread for toast," he says. I'm totally in tune with White on the subject of tomalley, which adds a nutty richness to dipping butter. So does the roe, located next to the tomalley in female lobsters. The roe or coral is black when raw, turning red when cooked.

Whole lobsters should be cooked alive. I've found that steaming, on top of a steamer basket over an inch or two of boiling water in a covered container, is better than boiling in lots of water because it doesn't dilute the flavor. Steaming is also more forgiving if you happen to overcook the lobster, a common problem for larger lobsters, which is why some mistakenly think they're tough. Boiling is a good idea if you have several lobsters to cook at the same time in one large pot or if you have access to sea water.

Figure on 8 to 9 minutes for the first pound and 2 minutes per quarter pound thereafter. Thus, a steamed two-pound lobster should take about 17 minutes. The meat should be snow white and firm, and the roe, if any, should become coral colored. Before cutting, let the lobster rest a few minutes while the juices recede into the meat.

Eating a lobster is messy, but White prefers casual clothes to bibs because, as he says in his book, "bibs do little more than provide the lobster juices a funnel straight to your lap." Twist off the claws and knuckles (which connect the claws to the body) and crack them with a cracker. Remove the meat with a small fork. Separate the tail from the body by bending each back. Snap off the tail flipper and remove the meat from the tail with a fork. Open the body cavity by cracking it apart sideways. There are four pockets of meat where the small walking legs are attached. There is also meat in those legs, especially in larger lobsters. And don't forget to slurp and suck up all those good juices.

The quintessential dipping sauce for lobster is drawn or melted butter. I tried different seasonings from vanilla to a variety of herbs to see if I could improve on plain butter. Tarragon was my favorite herb, though I preferred minced shallots above all (about one tablespoon per stick of butter). An Asian dipping sauce of ginger, soy, garlic, and sherry, was overpowering. However, a lobster stir fry with these same ingredients (in a black bean sauce) was delicious. While simple presentations are often best to appreciate lobster's delicacy (just a squirt of lemon is pretty terrific, especially if you're watching your weight) lobster is remarkably versatile. I love cold lobster mixed with homemade mayonnaise and avocado either on salad greens or spread on toast and layered with tomato and bacon for a sensuous lobster club sandwich.

A piquant lobster-tomato sauce is dynamite on pasta. To make the sauce, steam a 2-pound lobster so it's about 75 percent done, about 12 minutes. Remove and dice the meat. Saute the shells in olive oil for a few minutes. Add garlic, onion, tomatoes, and some white wine. Cook about 45 minutes and strain through a fine mesh into a saucepan. Add the lobster meat, some fresh chopped basil and hot pepper to taste. Heat for a few minutes and serve over pasta. (No need for cheese.) The lobster shells will make great stock for soup like lobster bisque. The meat can be used in chowders like the corn chowder below.

As for wines, a full-throttle California chardonnay was too sweet and oaky, unless vanilla butter is your thing. Better was a cru Chablis, which had just enough richness balanced by good acidity. Better still was a German trocken Riesling, especially with the stir fry. For somewhat richer dishes, a fat and honeyed Alsatian Pinot Gris would be my choice. Beer isn't bad either, with pasta or if you're going fishing.

CORN CHOWDER WITH LOBSTER

2 11/4-pound lobsters
3 cups corn kernels (3 to 4 ears), cobs saved
1/2 pound red-skinned potatoes, unpeeled
2 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup chopped shallots
1 rib celery, cut in half lengthwise and sliced thinly
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup warm milk
Salt and freshly pepper to taste
Healthy pinch cayenne
3 tablespoons chopped chives

1) Put lobsters in a large pot with a steamer basket and 1 inch of boiling water. Cover and steam 10 minutes. Cool, remove meat, retain shells and cooking water. Cut meat into 1/2-inch pieces. Don�t discard the water from the lobster pot.

2) Add enough water to the lobster pot to make 2 quarts. Break the corn cobs in half and add along with the lobster shells. Bring to a boil, skimming any scum that forms on the surface. Reduce heat and simmer 45 minutes. Strain, pressing the solids with the back of a spoon to extract any remaining liquid. You should have about 1 quart.

3) Meanwhile, steam potatoes, cool and cut into 1/2-inch cubes. Set aside.

4) Melt butter in a small kettle or large saucepan over medium heat. Saut� shallots and celery until shallots soften, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add flour and stir a few minutes. Add lobster-corn stock and bring to a boil, stirring. Simmer 10 minutes.

5) Add corn, potatoes, milk, salt, pepper and cayenne. Cook 5 minutes. Add reserved lobster and chives. Heat a few minutes. Check for seasoning. Serves 6.