With recipes for
- Roasted Chicken Breasts Stuffed With Nectarines
- Nectarine-Berry Cobbler With Hazelnut-Polenta Topping
- Baked Nectarines Stuffed With Amaretti Cookies
- Nectarine Chutney
Most people go through life blissfully assuming that the nectarine is the love child of a peach and plum. No, we haven’t heard rumors. But just look at the kid. It’s got that peach size and shape. The coloring is about the same. Redder, yes, and a bit more brightly yellow. But you can see the resemblance to daddy peach. It must have been mommy plum that donated that smooth skin to the nectarine. She also probably gave little “necky” some of her red and purple tones too. Ah yes, the lovely child of two attractive parents.
Wait a minute, say about half the books I’ve seen that mention the parentage of nectarines. Someone forgot to look at the birth certificate. The nectarine isn’t a cross between a peach and a plum at all - give back the dowry, pop - but a variety of a peach, created from the peach’s rib (botanically, you understand), like Adam’s better half.
Wrong again. The nectarine was not created from a peach’s rib, arm or toenail. Though the peach and the nectarine are technically from the same family, it’s a very big family - the rose family - and they haven’t seen each other for years. (Remember the War of the Roses?) In fact, some botanists, such as Luther Burbank, believe the nectarine is older than the peach. So for all practical purposes, the nectarine is from nothing except the magical dust from which everything else was created. It is what it always was: a wonderfully independent, juicy and delicious nectarine.
HISTORY
The ancestry of the nectarine may be confused in part because the fruit’s exact origins are a bit murky. It is believed to have come out of “the Orient” which probably means what we now consider China. But early varieties were nothing like the nectarine we know today. They were small and white-fleshed with skins that could be green, red, or yellow. Modern cross-breeding techniques have produced considerably larger (and yes, peachlike) fruit.
Trade routes took the nectarine through Greece where residents thought nectarine juice was so tantalizing they called it “drink of the gods” or nektar, the word from which nectarine is derived. By late in the 1620s there were six varieties in England, but the nectarine did not arrive in the United States until the 19th century.
Until 1940, nectarines had white flesh and excellent flavor. But they were also small and very fragile. They didn’t travel well and had a short shelf life, no more than a few days. So they remained a local delicacy. Then in 1942, the Le Grande variety was developed, named for the California town where it was created. This yellow-fleshed nectarine was much heartier and could withstand shipping. Since the development of the Le Grande, at least 100 varieties have been created and the nectarine has become an increasingly popular fruit.
WHERE GROWN
The nectarine is susceptible to disease when grown in hot humid climates so it’s not surprising that California is responsible for almost 98% of the domestic crop with Washington a distant second. However, small amounts from southern and eastern states (Georgia, Virginia, South Carolina and New Jersey) normally have excellent quality.
Limited quantities are imported from the Middle East and South America. Chile is the biggest exporter to the United States. About 60 percent of its total nectarine crop comes here. Imports aren’t normally as sweet as domestic nectarines because they are usually picked at an earlier stage, before they are mature and full of sugar.
VARIETIES
As with the peach, there are two categories of nectarines - freestone and clingstone. The freestone is easily separated from the center stone or pit of the fruit, while the clingstone varieties usually leave flesh attached to the pit. There is an in-between type as well, referred to as the “semi-freestone.” As you might guess, the pit on this one isn’t quite as hard to remove as the clingstone but harder than the freestone. Generally, as the semi-freestone fruit ripens, the pit comes off more easily.
Also like peaches, nectarine varieties are constantly being improved with better flavor, more attractive appearance and longer shelf life. But don’t get too attached to the new kids on the block. Many new varieties you see today may not be around in 10 years.
White nectarines, once a fragile and not terribly attractive fruit, are becoming more popular, with two or three new varieties showing up each year. New strains have longer shelf life than previous whites, and because of the way the acid breaks down in the fruit, these new white varieties taste sweeter than their yellow-fleshed cousins. In addition to their white flesh, white nectarines also have a paler background to their reddish skin.
SEASONS
Nectarines start arriving in early May with the May Glo. The season peaks in July and August and trails off into October. As the season progresses, nectarine sizes become larger, reaching peak size in August. Chilean fruit starts arriving in mid November and concludes in early March.
SELECTION, HANDLING & STORAGE
Select bright, well-rounded fruit with shades of deep yellow or orange- yellow under a red blush. Ripe fruit should yield to gentle pressure, particularly along the seam, though it should be somewhat firmer than a ripe peach. A ripe nectarine has a sweet fragrance, and smell as much as feel should be used to determine good, ripe fruit. Once picked, nectarines will not get sweeter but will become softer and juicier. Avoid fruit that is rock-hard, green, mushy or has shriveled skin.
Usually if the fruit is brightly colored but firm to moderately hard it will ripen in two to three days at room temperature, 51 to 77 degrees. (Above 78 degrees ripening actually slows down, negatively affecting flavor and texture.) A paper bag will speed up ripening, especially when nectarines are put in with apples, bananas or pears.
Store nectarines at room temperature until fully ripe. Refrigerate if fully ripe but for no more than a couple of days. Otherwise, the chill may rob the fruit of its juice and flavor.
NUTRITION
One medium nectarine (140 grams, about 5 ounces) contains 70 calories, 16 grams of carbohydrates, 3 grams of dietary fiber, 1 gram each of fat and protein, 20% of the RDA for vitamin A and 10% for vitamin C. Nectarines are also a decent source of potassium.
YIELD
One pound of nectarines - about 3 medium or 2 large - yields about 2 cups of sliced fruit, 1 3/4 cups diced or 1 1/2 cups pureed.
TIP
Nectarines can be used in almost any recipe that calls for peaches. For a real change of pace, try nectarine halves grilled with a splash of amaretto, or sliced on cereal instead of bananas.
PREPARATION
Unlike peaches, there is really no need to peel nectarines. The skin doesn’t get in the way of cooked or raw presentations.
The easiest way to pit freestone nectarines is to make a cut on the seam all the way around and through the fruit down to the pit. Then twist each half in opposite directions. Clingstones are a bit sticker. It’s best to cut the sections (slices, quarters etc.) right from the whole fruit by slicing down to the pit and removing the desired amount. As with apples, pears and peaches, lemon or other citrus juice retards browning on cut areas.
If you got a good deal on nectarines only to find out you have more ripe fruit than you can handle, freeze some of it. Halve or slice the fruit and put on sheet trays in the freezer. When solid, put the frozen pieces in a plastic freezer bag.
Spices and seasonings that go well with peaches go well with nectarines. They include almonds, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, coriander, mace, sherry, Marsala rum and amaretto.
ROASTED CHICKEN BREASTS STUFFED WITH
NECTARINES top
Don’t let the number of steps on this recipe throw you. This is a remarkably simple dish and a good way to combine fruit and meat that isn’t overly sweet. Keeping the skin on retains the moisture of the fruit and meat, though I recommend removing the skin before eating.
2 medium to large nectarines, ripe but firm
1 1/2 cups dessert wine such as later harvest Riesling or Gewürztraminer
Salt and pepper to taste
4 chicken breast halves, on the bone with skin
1) Halve nectarines but cutting a slit along the seam all the way to the pit. Give a twist, releasing the halves. Pop out the pit with the tip of a paring knife. With the cut side down, cut each half into 5 slices, lengthwise. (If halves don’t twist off easily, you can cut wedges from the whole nectarine by cutting down to the pit and lifting off wedges.)
2) Put slices in a shallow bowl and add wine. Allow to marinate 30 minutes.
3) Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Loosen the skin on the chicken breasts, taking care not to tear it. Season flesh with salt and pepper.
4) Place 4 nectarine slices between the skin and breast, covering the slices with the skin and securing the skin, nectarines and flesh together with toothpicks (You will have some nectarine slices left over.) Reserve marinade.
5) Put breasts on a sheet pan lined with foil, drizzle a tablespoon of wine marinade over each and bake 25 to 30 minutes or until temperature in the deepest part of the flesh reads 160 degrees. Remove to a platter or individual plates.
6) Meanwhile, put marinade with remaining slices in a saucepan over medium heat. Reduce to a light, syrupy glaze, about 15 minutes. Pour over breasts. Serves 4.
Sam’s Cooking Tip: Having worked in hospital food service, I’m a stickler for avoiding cross contamination after handling poultry. One way to avoid this is to combine the amount of salt and pepper you’ll need in a small dish. Then take what you’ll need to season each breast from the dish with your fingers and rub onto the flesh of the breast. This eliminates handling the salt shaker and pepper mill with unclean hands.
NECTARINE-BERRY COBBLER WITH HAZELNUT-POLENTA
TOPPING top
2 pounds firm but ripe nectarines, pitted and sliced about 3/8 to 1/2 inch
thick
1 1/2 to 2 pints blackberries or raspberries, washed and picked over
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/3 cup plus 1/4 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon each ground cinnamon and nutmeg
2 tablespoons cornstarch
Butter-flavor spray
1/2 cup cornmeal
1/4 cup flour
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup 1 percent milk
1/4 cup toasted and skinned hazelnuts, chopped
1) Spray a 2-quart gratin or baking dish with butter flavor spray. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2) In a mixing bowl, toss nectarine slices and berries with lemon juice. In a smaller bowl, combine 1/3 cup sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and cornstarch. Add to fruit and toss. Add fruit to gratin dish and level out.
3) In a mixing bowl, combine cornmeal, flour, salt, baking powder, milk, hazelnuts and 1/4 cup sugar. Spoon or spread over fruit. Spray with butter-flavor spray.
4) Bake about 30 minutes or until top begins to brown and fruit bubbles up. Cool and serve warm or at room temperature. Serves 6 to 8.
Sam’s Cooking Tips: In a serendipitous happening, I was thinking about using polenta as a low-fat cobbler topping when I came across an article by Mary Everly in Taste magazine suggesting the very same thing. The above is a significant modification of what she did.
BAKED NECTARINES STUFFED WITH AMARETTI
COOKIES top
A variation of a classic Italian recipe from the Piedmont region which uses peaches. Amaretti are Italian macaroons flavored with amaretto, the bitter almond liqueur.
6 medium to large ripe nectarines
1 cup amaretti cookies
1 egg beaten
Butter flavor spray
1 pint low or non-fat frozen vanilla yogurt or ice cream
1) Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Halve nectarines along the “seam” and separate two halves by twisting each half. Remove pits.
2) Crush amaretti in a food processor or by putting them in a tea towel and mashing them with the bottom of a wine bottle or meat pounder. Combine crumbs with beaten egg.
3) Stuff each nectarine half with a tablespoon of the amaretti. Spray top with butter-flavor spray and put on a small baking pan which has also been sprayed.
4) Bake nectarines about 30 to 35 minutes or until tender but not falling apart. Cool to warm. Allow frozen yogurt to melt about 80 percent of the way. Whisk smooth with a fork or small whisk. Spoon about 2 tablespoons onto 6 plates. Top with 2 nectarine halves. Serves 6.
Sam’s Cooking Tip: I got the idea of using melted low or non-fat ice cream as a sauce from Jeanne Jones, the low-fat recipe queen. It’s important that you not let the ice cream melt all the way or it will look like something for the cat instead of a sauce.
NECTARINE CHUTNEY top
This recipe is from “Preserving Today” by Jeanne Lesem (Knopf, 1992). The hard cover version of Jeanne’s book is out of print but there are plans for a paperback edition.
1 1/2 to 1 3/4 pounds firm, ripe, unpeeled nectarines
1/2 pound red onions, diced (about 2 cups)
3 tablespoons (about 2 ounces) grated or finely chopped crystallized ginger,
or 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
2 cups fresh orange juice
1/2 cup white wine vinegar or white vinegar
2 1/2 cups packed (a 15-ounce box) golden raisins
2 to 2 1/2 inches cinnamon stick
1/4 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground mace
1/2 blanched almonds, halved
3 hot, sterilized pint jars and lids
1) Wash, dry and pit nectarines and slice them thinly. Put in a heavy-bottomed, 4-quart saucepan.
2) Add remaining ingredients except almonds. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat and boil slowly about 40 minutes. Stir occasionally, then more frequently during the last 15 minutes to prevent sticking.
3) Stir in almonds and boil, stirring, 5 minutes more. Spoon at once into the jars. Seal, cool and label with the date. Refrigerate at least one month before using. Makes 3 pints.
Sam’s Cooking Tip: Actually it’s Jeanne Lesem’s cooking tip and the basis for her book. Her premise is that you don’t necessarily have to process by boiling or pressure cooking, nor can mass quantities of food. Small quantities of certain foods, such as the above, can be stored in the refrigerator - or at temperatures in the mid 50s, such as in a wine cellar - for several months without lengthy processing methods.