SAM ON THE RADIO:
Cooking to Beat the Clock on A Chef's Table

Take this Low-Tech Tool for a Spin:
Cobb Salad  

Many of us have equipment and appliances today, mostly of the high-tech variety, that we can’t imagine having lived without. Two good examples are the computer and the cellphone. But in the kitchen, one of my favorite pieces of equipment for quick meals is decidedly low-tech. It’s the salad spinner.

Before the salad spinner, we used forests of paper towels to dry lettuce for salads, or we let the leaves sit on drain boards or in large colanders for hours until they dried. Or we created our own primitive salad spinner. When I was a student at the Restaurant School here in Philadelphia 25 years ago, we put the lettuce into a wire basket. Then we’d close the basket, grab onto the handles and swing the basket around at arms length as if winding up for fast-pitch softball. It was reasonably efficient, though your colleagues got sprayed every time you washed the greens.

The salad spinner has three parts: a slotted plastic basket, set inside a larger, solid plastic bowl, and a lid. Washed greens are put in the slotted basket. Then the lid is put on top of the bowl. The lid contains gears which spin the  slotted basket around, throwing water that clings to the greens out through the slots on the side like a centrifuge. The water lands on the bottom of an outer bowl. The gears, by the way, are operated by a cord, a crank or a press. Salad spinners range in capacity from 11/2 to 7 quarts, though 4 quarts is generally fine for home use.

Most greens such as romaine or iceberg lettuce can be cleaned and dried in the salad spinner. I usually cut the greens crosswise into ribbons and put them in the spinner. Then I fill it with water, drain and spin dry. But particularly gritty greens like spinach or arugula should be washed in a sink before being dried in the salad spinner. The reason is that they need lots of water to lose up the grit.

Why is it so important to have dry greens? Because salad dressings won’t cling to them if they are wet.

When I say “greens,” I don’t just mean lettuce leaves. You can also use the salad spinner for shredded cabbage, even herbs such as cilantro, basil, or parsley, which is what I’ve done in this recipe for Cobb Salad.

Cobb Salad

1 head garden or other green leafy lettuce (or a small head of romaine), no more than 1 pound
12 ounces red cabbage
1 pound tomatoes, about 2 medium to large
2 ripe avocados
8 ounces goat cheese or feta cheese
12 ounces cooked turkey breast or chicken breast
1/3 cup cilantro, basil, or flat parsley leaves, well packed
1/3 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1)Cut and discard 1/2-inch from the top and bottom of the lettuce and cut the head crosswise into 1-inch-wide strips. Put the strips in a salad spinner. Shred the cabbage with the large holes of a 4-sided grater, a chef’s knife, or the slicing attachment of a food processor. Add to the salad spinner. Fill the spinner with water, drain, and spin dry. Blot excess moisture with paper towels.

2)While the salad is drying, core the tomatoes. Put a strainer over a small bowl. Squeeze the tomatoes so that the seeds are caught in the strainer and the juice goes into the bowl. Discard the seeds and save the juice. Cut the tomatoes into thin wedges and set aside.

3)Halve, pit, and peel the avocados. Cut each into 1/2 to 3/4 inch chunks. Cut the goat cheese and chicken into 1/2 to 3/4 inch chunks.

4)Chop the cilantro, basil, or parsley. Add the olive and vinegar to the tomato juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. In a large bowl, toss the cabbage and lettuce with half of the dressing and spread the greens out on a large platter or large, shallow bowl.

5)Place the tomato wedges in a row down the middle of the platter on top of the greens. Beginning at the center of the platter, spread the goat cheese, turkey, and avocados in rows on either side of the tomatoes like spokes on a wheel. Sprinkle with the cilantro and drizzle with the remaining dressing.

Serves 4

Per serving: 704 calories, 43 grams protein, 24 grams carbohydrate, 52 grams fat, 17 grams saturated fat, 115 mg cholesterol, 377 mg sodium.