SAM ON THE RADIO:
Cooking to Beat the Clock on A Chef's Table

Inspirations for Quick Cooking:
Coq au Vin

I am frequently asked how I come up with ideas for quick meals.

Actually, almost any main course is a candidate for converting into fast food.

One of my favorite ways to create speedy meals is to take a classic dish, such as bouillabaisse, cassoulet, or coq au vin and ask myself: “Can I do this in half the time (or less) and still make it taste good?” Sometimes the answer is not only yes, but yes, indeed. Several months ago, I served my 15-minute bouillabaisse and a version from French food authority Richard Olney blind to my friends. My guests couldn’t tell which one was which.

What had I done to simplify and speed up the process? First, I used bottled clam juice instead of homemade fish stock. For the rouille (a spicy mayonnaise), I used roasted red bell peppers from a jar. And I made the preparation more efficient by “multitasking” (having more than one thing at a time going on): while I was making the rouille, the fish was cooking in the tomato broth, and the baguette slices were toasting for the croutons.

I use  convenience items for speed, but I don’t do so at the expense of quality. I’ll use bottled or canned broths, canned tomatoes and beans and frozen peas, but I never use frozen chopped onions, garlic powder, instant rice or dried parsley.

When I decided to do a quick version of coq au vin, my main obstacle was the traditional recipe’s cut-up whole chicken, which takes too long to cook. I could have used chicken tenders or boneless chicken breasts cut into thick strips or chunks, but they would be too insipid for this robust dish. Skinless chicken breasts on the bone were juicier but, though more flavorful, still a bit bland. So I decided on boneless and skinless thighs because the dark meat had more flavor, the absence of bones meant fast cooking, and the lack of skin kept the fat content down.  Other time savers included using canned chicken stock, frozen pearl onions, and the kind of multi-tasking I described above. For the cooking wine, I’d recommend a pinot noir. Drink what’s left with dinner.

Coq au Vin

2 ounces, thickly cut bacon (preferably lean, center cut), about three slices  
8 boneless and skinless chicken thighs, about 2 pounds 
Salt and freshly ground black pepper  
1/3 cup all-purpose flour  
3 cloves garlic  
8 ounces button mushrooms  
1 tablespoon tomato paste  
1 cup fat-free, reduced sodium chicken stock  
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves or 1 teaspoon dried  
1 cup red wine  
2 bay leaves  
1 cup frozen pearl onions  
8 ounces wide eggless noodles

 1)Put a 12-inch saute pan or Dutch oven over high heat. Cut the bacon crosswise into 1/2-inch wide pieces and add to the pan. Lower the heat to medium and cover. Stir once or twice until the bacon has rendered its fat and just begins to crisp, about 3 minutes. Remove the bacon and set aside.

 2)Meanwhile, run the hot water tap and put 3 quarts hot tap water in a pasta pot. Cover and put over high heat until the water boils, about 7 minutes. Season the chicken thighs with salt and pepper. Dredge the chicken in the flour, shaking off any excess.

 3)When the bacon has been removed from the pan, turn the heat to high and add the chicken. Brown the chicken for 3  minutes on each side.

 4)While the chicken browns, mince the garlic. Halve the mushrooms if small, quarter if large. Mix the tomato paste and chicken stock together in a cup. Chop the thyme leaves if using fresh. After the chicken has browned, add the garlic and mushrooms to the pan. Stir and cook for 1 minute. Add the red wine and stir with a wooden spoon, scraping up any bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the stock and tomato paste, thyme, bay leaves, pearl onions, the reserved bacon, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir well, cover and bring to a boil. Uncover and simmer just until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce lightly thickened, about 5 minutes.

 5)As soon as the water boils for the noodles, add 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and the noodles. Stir well and cook for about 5 minutes or until the noodles are just tender. Drain the noodles and put on a large platter. Place the chicken on top and pour the sauce over.

 Serves 4

 Per serving: 685 calories, 57 grams protein, 60 grams carbohydrate, 18 grams fat, 5 grams saturated fat, 198 mg cholesterol, 433 mg sodium.