SAM ON THE RADIO:
Cooking to Beat the Clock on A Chef's Table

Fins on Fire:
Grilled Salmon with Cucumber Walnut Salad

We’ve still got plenty of grilling left before the cold weather sets in. If you haven’t had grilled fish, I urge you to try it. It’s delicious, healthful and simple. When I was in Greece earlier this year, I had some wonderful fish, cooked whole on the grill and served with nothing more than olive oil and fresh lemon juice.

There are three types of fish to consider for grilling: whole fish, fillets, and steaks. Good examples of whole fish are sea bass, farm-raised stripped bass, snapper, and pompano weighing 1 to 3 pounds. Figure on ¾ to 1 pound per person.

One problem people have with whole fish (and fish in general) is that it sticks to the grill. One way to minimize that is to use large tongs and a wide spatula, both sprayed with oil. Better is a fish basket with a nonstick surface. Just stick the fish inside and put the basket on the grill. It’s also important to make sure the grill surface is clean and well lubricated. (Grilling expert Steven Raichlin suggests soaking a ball of paper towels with oil and rubbing on the grill while holding the ball with tongs.) Brush the fish with oil just before putting it on the grill, or soak it in an oil-based marinade. Finally, wait until the side of the fish on the grill has had a chance to develop a crust before you turn it over. And turn the fish over only once.

To test for doneness, stick a paring knife along the backbone. The meat should be white and lift away cleanly. A standard rule of thumb is to cook whole fish over a medium to medium-hot fire for 10 minutes for every inch of thickness, measured at the thickest part of the fish.

If you don’t want to look at eyeballs when you grill, try fillets or steaks. Most fish fillets are too delicate for grilling. Exceptions are firm, fatty fish like salmon or mackerel. Steaks are usually a better choice. There are two kinds of steaks. One type has bones, such as salmon steaks. The bones keep the fish moist and help prevent it from falling apart. Salmon, by the way, may be the single best fish to grill because of its fat content, wide availability, and its adaptability to marinades. But don’t marinate any fish for longer than 60 minutes. There are also steaks without bones, which get their name from their meaty texture. Swordfish, tuna, mahi mahi, and shark are among the best for grilling.

  A good way to test for doneness with filets or steaks of white-fleshed fish such as swordfish or mahi mahi is to press the flesh. If it springs back, it’s done. Red-fleshed fish like tuna should be cooked like beef, rare to medium rare. Cook salmon somewhere between. Keep that in mind when you check out this recipe.

Grilled Salmon with Cucumber Walnut Salad

Vegetable oil spray
1 lemon 
2 large sprigs parsley, preferably flat-leaf variety
1 large clove garlic
1/4 cup olive oil 
Salt and freshly ground black pepper 
Four salmon steaks, each about 8 ounces
3 medium cucumbers, about 11/2 pounds
12 to 14 chives, enough for 2 tablespoons when chopped
3 tablespoons chopped walnuts
1 cup reduced-fat sour cream
1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1)Spray a gas grill liberally with vegetable oil spray. Turn  the grill to high.

2)Juice the lemon, chop the parsley, and finely mince the garlic (or put it through a garlic press). Combine the lemon juice, parsley, garlic, olive oil and salt and pepper to taste in a deep dish or shallow bowl large enough to hold the salmon in one layer. Add the salmon and rub the fish with the marinade on both sides. Let the fish marinate 5 minutes.

3)While the fish marinates, peel the cucumbers and halve, lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds and cut each half crosswise into thin slices. Put into a mixing bowl. Chop the chives. Add the chives and walnuts to the cucumbers. In a small bowl, mix the sour cream, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste and add to the cucumbers. Toss well and set aside.

4)Grill the fish for about 3 minutes on each side or until the flesh springs back when pressed with your finger. Serve the fish with the cucumber salad.

Serves 4

Per serving: 553 calories, 45 grams protein, 10 grams carbohydrate, 37 grams fat, 9 grams saturated fat, 138 mg cholesterol, 159 mg sodium.