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Cooking to Beat the Clock on A Chef's Table

Microwave Risotto with Wild Mushrooms and Peas

Even though food is my business, I had forgotten how often I use my stove until I didn’t have it anymore. For two weeks now I’ve been without my stove while my new kitchen is being installed. And since I’m not the kind of guy who eats a lot of take-out food, that means I’ve had to restructure how I cook. That means more cooking in the microwave oven.

Despite the fact that I’ve written two Cooking to Beat the Clock books featuring meals prepared in fifteen minutes, I haven’t used the microwave oven for cooking very much. Mostly it’s been for defrosting and reheating food. Not only do I feel more comfortable cooking on a stove top or when using the oven, but I think food tastes better when cooked that way. However, the microwave oven has its uses.

For example, vegetables that you would normally steam or boil, such as broccoli or asparagus, cook much better in the microwave oven. You’re less likely to overcook them and they retain their nutrients better than when cooked using those other two methods. I also like to cook baking potatoes and sweet potatoes in the microwave oven.

While I wouldn’t cook meat or poultry in the microwave, except maybe to poach chicken breasts for chicken salad, fish and seafood do well in the microwave.

Polenta works extremely well in the microwave, taking less than half the time than it does on the stove top. And you don’t have to wear yourself out stirring constantly either.

Another grain that cooks up well in the microwave is rice. I use basmati rice in most of my Cooking to Beat the Clock dishes that call for rice. Basmati and other rices can be done as well in the microwave as on the stove top. Better, actually, because you don’t have to worry about boiling over or scorching.

Risotto can also be done in the microwave. It doesn’t take any less time than it does on top of the stove, but you don’t have to stir it incessantly as you do when you cook it over a flame. The resulting dish isn’t as creamy as risotto cooked on the stove, though it’s still quite tasty.

Two notes of caution when cooking in the microwave oven. First, use microwave safe containers, including plastic wrap that is approved for use in the microwave oven. Second, remove covers from dishes carefully to avoid burning from steam.

A good basic book on microwave cooking is Barbara Kafka’s Microwave Gourmet, from which my recipe for Microwave Risotto with Wild Mushrooms and Peas has been adapted.

Microwave Risotto with Wild Mushrooms and Peas

• 1 ounce dried mushrooms such as shiitake or porcini

• 1 cup frozen peas

• 2 shallots or one small onion (about 4 ounces)

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 cup arborio or other risotto rice such as carnaroli

• 2  2/3 cups fat-free, reduced sodium chicken broth

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1)Put the dried mushrooms and 2/3 cup of water in a microwave safe container. Cover tightly with a lid or plastic wrap and cook on high power for 3 minutes. Remove and set aside.

2)Meanwhile, peel and mince the shallots or onion. Put the olive oil in round microwave safe dish about two inches deep and 10 inches in diameter, or a different shaped container of similar capacity. Heat the oil in the microwave on high for 2 minutes, uncovered. Add the shallots or onion, stir, and cook, uncovered, for 4 minutes. Add the rice, stir, and cook, uncovered, for 4 minutes.

3)Meanwhile, strain the soaking mushrooms through cheesecloth or a fine mesh sieve (to catch any grit), saving the soaking liquid in a bowl. Combine the mushroom liquid and enough chicken broth to total 3 cups of liquid. Coarsely chop the mushrooms.

4)Add the mushrooms and liquid to the rice. Stir and cook on high power for 9 minutes, uncovered. Add the peas, stir and cook 9 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper to taste and stir in the Parmesan cheese. Let stand a few minutes to absorb any remaining liquid.

 Serves 2 to 3 as a main course.