Cooking to Beat the Clock:
Pasta with a Chill 

This time of year, cold pasta seems a lot more appealing than hot pasta. It’s easy to make and, of course, it can be prepared ahead of time. But pasta salad can also be made as soon as you come home from work.

Whether you make them on the spot or earlier in the day, pasta salads require sturdy pasta. That means dried, not fresh pasta, and preferably Italian, which is of higher quality than American. There are other kinds of pasta too. Consider Chinese egg noodles and Japanese noodles made from buckwheat (soba) or wheat (somen or udon).

Once the pasta is cooked, cool it down quickly under cold running water. Then drain it thoroughly so that the dressing adheres more easily. If you make the pasta salad ahead of time, bring it out of the fridge at least 30 minutes before serving.

Cold pasta, especially if it has been refrigerated several hours, has to have more seasoning because cold dulls our taste buds. So ramp up the herbs and spices and especially the salt. I use a tablespoon of salt in the cooking water for pasta. That may seem like a lot, but most of the salt gets thrown out with the cooking water. With cold pasta, even more salt is lost because the pasta is rinsed to cool it down.

The abundance of great local produce makes this the best time of year to make pasta salads. Tomatoes are a natural with pasta dishes. You can do a Greek pasta salad with tomatoes, cucumbers, feta cheese and Greek olives; a Provencal version with tomatoes, garlic, zucchini and sweet peppers; or an Italian salad, with tomatoes, olive oil, Parmesan, and basil. Speaking of basil, who says pasta with pesto has to be hot?

When I think cool dishes for summer, I often think of northern Europe. For pasta salad, that could mean smoked salmon, dill, capers, and chives or red onions. For an Asian cold pasta, try broccoli with garlic and sesame oil.

Pasta salads are also a good way to get rid of half jars of food languishing in the refrigerator, such as roasted red bell peppers and artichoke hearts. And don’t forget canned beans like cannellini beans and chick peas, a great source of fiber and low-fat protein.

PASTA SALAD WITH GREEN BEANS AND TOMATOES

• 1 pound green beans

• 1 pound pasta

• Salt

• 1 1/2 pounds ripe tomatoes, about 3 medium

• Half of a small to medium Vidalia onion, about 4 ounces (see note)

• 24 basil leaves

• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

• 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

• Freshly ground black pepper

• 2 ounces Parmesan cheese

1)Run the hot-water tap and put 2 quarts hot tap water in each of 2 pots (one large enough to eventually hold all the water and pasta). Cover and bring both pots to a boil over high heat, 8 to 10 minutes.

2)Meanwhile, trim the green beans and cut them in half, crosswise. (Leave whole if small.) When the pasta water has come to a boil, add 1 tablespoon salt and the pasta. Stir well and cover. When the pasta returns to a boil, stir again. If using thin pasta, add the green beans at this point. If thicker pasta, cook 5 to 7 minutes, depending on the shape, then add the green beans. Stir and cook until the pasta and the green beans are cooked but still firm, about 5 minutes more.

3)While the green beans and pasta cook, core and cut the tomatoes into thin wedges. Put into a large serving bowl. Peel, halve and cut the onion into thin half moon slices. Add to the tomatoes. Stack 12 of the basil leaves, roll the leaves into a cigar, then cut crosswise into thin ribbons. Repeat with the next 12 leaves. Add to the tomatoes and onions.

4) In a small bowl, mix the olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Drain the pasta and green beans in a large colander and put under cold running water, tossing with your hands until cooled. Shake off as much moisture as possible. Then blot the rest of the moisture with paper towels or a kitchen towel.

5) Add the pasta and green beans to the tomato mixture. Add the dressing and toss well.

Serves 4

Recipe Note: Vidalia onions are typically no smaller than 8 ounces, which is why I call for half of a small to medium Vidalia onion.

Per serving: 673 calories, 23 grams protein, 102 grams carbohydrate, 20 grams fat, 5 grams saturated fat, 10 mg  cholesterol, 646 mg sodium.