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Cooking to Beat the Clock on A Chef's Table

Using Summer's Bounty: Part I:
Provencal Chicken with Warm Corn Salad

This is the first of two segments on how to use that bounty of summer produce quickly and easily. Click here for the second segment.

First, let’s talk about zucchini. When you’re picking your own zucchini or buying them from a farmer’s market, always choose zucchini that are smaller, rather than larger. Larger zucchini can be tough and woody.

One of my favorite ways to use zucchini is one of the simplest. Slice it into rounds and sauté in olive oil and butter. Then add some chopped garlic and flavored breadcrumbs (the kind you can by in a can) and cook until the breadcrumbs are toasty. You can also shred the zucchini and sauté it by itself or with any number of vegetables such as corn, scallions, onion, or tomatoes. Or make zucchini pancakes the way you would potato pancakes. Then there is that old standby, ratatouille, the Provencal mélange of zucchini, eggplant, tomatoes, onions, and peppers. Ratatouille is more versatile than you might think. In addition to using it as a side vegetable or pasta topping, you can spread leftover ratatouille on toast or bread for an hors d’oeuvre or snack, or stir it into an omelet.

Frying or sautéing is best for zucchini; steaming accentuates zucchini’s already watery nature. Grilling is great too. Cut the zucchini lengthwise into slices about 1/4-inch thick. Brush with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and grill just until tender and lightly blackened.

A mix of grilled vegetables makes an easy and delicious summer meal. In addition to zucchini and yellow summer squash, try tomatoes, onions, asparagus, bell peppers, and mushrooms. Serve with cruets of olive oil and balsamic vinegar, some crusty Italian or French bread, and a crisp sauvignon blanc.

We’re also blessed with great local corn in summer. Rather than eating it off the cob, I’ll usually cut off the kernels and sauté them in butter, perhaps with some chili powder or cumin. Or I’ll  make a quick corn chowder with new potatoes, celery, shallots, chives, and milk. To elevate the chowder to a main course, add some crab meat, shrimp, or lobster. I love warm corn salads too, like the Provencal Chicken with Warm Corn Salad below. For a Southwestern twist, make a corn salad with black beans, lime juice, and cilantro.

Provencal Chicken with Warm Corn Salad

1/4 cup olive oil
Four 5 to 6-ounce boneless and skinless chicken breasts, pounded to half their normal thickness
Salt and freshly ground black pepper 
4 ears fresh corn
1 medium red bell pepper
3 scallions
2 small to medium zucchini, about 12 ounces total
1 medium to large tomato
1/2 cup pitted black olives, not ripe olives
2 teaspoons cider vinegar
2 teaspoons ground cumin

1)Put a skillet or sauté pan large enough to hold all the chicken in one layer over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and add to the skillet. Cook for 4 minutes on one side, then lower heat to medium-high and cook for 3 minutes on the other side or until no pink appears in the middle. (Cut into a piece with a paring knife if you’re not sure.)  Remove the chicken to a platter and cover with foil.

2)Meanwhile, run the hot water tap and put about 2 inches of hot tap water and 1 teaspoon salt in a pot large enough to hold the corn in one layer. Cover the pot and put it over high heat. Shuck the ears of corn. Put the corn into the pot when the water boils and cook for 2 minutes.

3)While the corn cooks, dice the bell pepper. Trim and thinly slice the white and green parts of the scallions. Drain the corn. Put the bell pepper and scallions into a mixing bowl. Cut the kernels from the cob and add to the mixing bowl. (Use a kitchen towel to hold the corn if it is too hot.)

4)Dice the zucchini and add to the skillet used for the chicken. Chop the tomato and olives. Add both to the zucchini. Cook about 2 minutes or until the zucchini has just softened. Add salt and pepper to taste, remembering that olives are salty.

5)Meanwhile, mix the remaining olive oil, vinegar, cumin, and salt and pepper to taste in a small bowl or cup. Add to the corn salad and mix well. Pour the zucchini mixture over the chicken and serve with the corn salad.

Serves 4

Per serving:  468 calories, 43 grams protein, 35 grams carbohydrate, 19 grams fat, 2.9 grams saturated fat, 90 mg cholesterol, 424 mg sodium.