ALL ABOUT BROCCOLI

This information first appeared in my book
EAT FRESH, STAY HEALTHY. For in depth articles about fruits and vegetables, with recipes, you can subscribe to my free monthly newsletter.

With recipes for
Broccoli with Bagna Cauda Sauce
Broccoli with Roast Shallots and Mushrooms
Broccoli Souffle
Quick Broccoli with Pasta

Remember when President George Bush the First in 1990 announced his dislike of broccoli - in favor of such nutritious wonders as Butterfingers candy bars and pork rinds? Broccoli immediately came under scrutiny. The broccoli growers of America sent the White House cases of the stuff (which the President promptly donated to a good cause). Television commentators talked about broccoli. Comedians made jokes about it. And food editors wrote stories about broccoli.

Suddenly we realized two things. First, despite Mr. Bush's disdain, broccoli was and remains one of America's favorite vegetables, ranking eighth in a 1995 Produce Marketing Association list of the best selling vegetables sold in supermarkets.

Second, many Americans who ate broccoli simply because they liked it, or because their mother told them to, found out that broccoli is one of the most nutritious of all vegetables. As Jean Carper put it in "Food - Your Miracle Medicine" (HarperCollins, 1992), broccoli is "A spectacular and unique package of versatile disease fighters."

But as a member of the cruciferous family, broccoli contains sulfurous compounds that can emit odors that are off-putting to many people. So scientists have been busy at work trying to come up with products that use broccoli for its nutrients but not its flavor, such as sweetened broccoli-based vegetable juices and broccoli flavored salsa. Ugh!

Broccoli is just fine the way it is. Don't overcook it or it will stink up the joint. And don't undercook it because, well, because raw or undercooked broccoli just doesn't taste very good.

And to former President George Bush we say: Even if you have to sprinkle it with crushed pork rinds or candy bars, eat your broccoli!

HISTORY

We can thank the Italians for many things, and broccoli is one of them. Broccoli has been a favorite in Italy since the days of ancient Rome. And it remained largely an Italian vegetable until the 16th century when it was introduced into France, then later to England.

Italian immigrants carried their love of broccoli to the United States and raised it in their home gardens. It stayed mainly in that ethnic community until the 1927 when the D'Arrigo family, Italian-American farmers in the Santa Clara Valley of northern California, started shipping broccoli East under the Andy Boy label, a brand that is still used today. It was an immediate success. By the early 1930s, broccoli had taken its place as a vegetable commodity. Steve D'Arrigo tells us that when he got into the family business in 1948 there were only five broccoli growers. Today there are over 220.

The word broccoli comes from the Latin word brachium for arm or branch. Early settlers in the United States apparently knew it as brockala. And Italian-Americans often referred to it as broccali.

WHERE GROWN

California produces about 95 percent of the broccoli grown commercially in the United States. Arizona is the No. 2 producer, followed by Washington and Maine. Mexico exports to the United States about as much broccoli as Arizona produces, Canada about as much as Washington.

VARIETIES

The Calabrese is the primary commercial variety of broccoli, named for the Italian province of Calabria. Others are the Patriot, Marathon, Green Belt, Arcadia, Green Duke, Emperor, Cruiser, 458, Shogun and Premium. Packaged broccoli cuts are also becoming popular as a convenience item. Stalks, whether diced, sliced into "coins" or shredded, and florets (the small individual "flowers" that make up the larger head) can be used in stir frys and salads. Trimmed broccoli spears are ready for steaming. And broccoli coleslaw (with red cabbage and carrots) is an alternative to the standard cabbage slaw.

SEASONS

Broccoli is a year round vegetable, though there may be less availability in the summer months when quality may also wane due to the heat. The peak period for broccoli is January through March.

SELECTION, HANDLING & STORAGE

Fresh and well kept broccoli will have a firm head with compact clusters. The clusters should be dark green and may have purple highlights. Leaves should be crisp. Yellowed clusters or yellow flowers showing on the inside are signs of poor quality. Avoid bunches with stems that are thick and tough, or broccoli that has a strong smell. It should smell clean and fresh.

Store broccoli in the vegetable crisper for up to three days.

NUTRITION

If there is a more healthful vegetable than broccoli, I don't know it. A serving of 1 medium stalk (148 grams, about 5 ounces) contains 50 calories, .5 grams of fat, 4 grams each of fiber and protein, and 9 grams of carbohydrates. You can get 200% of the RDA for vitamin C in a serving, 10% for vitamin A, 6% for calcium and 4% for iron.

That's just for starters. As a member of the cruciferous family, broccoli has enormous cancer-fighting properties. It is loaded with antioxidants such as beta carotene and folic acid as well as lutein, a lesser known antioxidant that some scientists think may be as strong a cancer inhibitor as beta carotene. Broccoli's high fiber helps keep cholesterol in check. It has anti-viral and anti-ulcer properties. And it helps regulate insulin and blood sugar.

Message: Take three broccoli spears and call us in the morning.

YIELD

A good sized bunch of broccoli weighs about 1-1/2 to 2 pounds and should serve four as a side vegetable, more if combined with other ingredients. One pound of broccoli yields about 2 cups chopped.

PREPARATION

Separate the florets from the stalk by cutting off the florets where they naturally attach to the stalk. Peel the stalk and cut into thin rounds or match sticks. Generally it's not necessary to peel the base of the florets. By cutting the stalk into small enough pieces, it will cook in about the same time as the florets. Otherwise you should start cooking the stem pieces a few minutes before you add the florets.

As with many vegetables, nutrients are best preserved with microwave cooking. But I prefer steaming. (Call me old-fashioned.) A head of broccoli cut into pieces will cook by boiling in about 5 minutes, steaming about 7 or 8 minutes and microwaving about 5 minutes.

As with most green vegetables, keeping cooking time to a maximum of seven minutes and refreshing the broccoli in ice water - if you're not using it right away or are making a cold presentation - helps to maintain the bright green color.

Broccoli, like its cousin broccoli raab, goes well in Italian preparations such as pasta dishes, beans, potatoes and polenta - and with garlic, olive oil, olives, balsamic vinegar, anchovies and pork meats such as sausage and pancetta. Broccoli also works nicely with freshly grated nutmeg.

BROCCOLI WITH BAGNA CAUDA SAUCE

Normally, bagna cauda is a nutritionist's nightmare what with loads of oil and cream. But this version uses only a small amount of oil and evaporated skim milk instead of cream.

• 1 large head broccoli
• 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 4 anchovy filets, minced
• 1 12-ounce can evaporated skim milk
• Kosher salt to taste

Trim broccoli into flowerets. Peel stem and cut into rounds about 3/8-inch thick. Set aside.

Heat oil in a small saucepan over very low heat. Add garlic and anchovy filets. Cook gently until garlic just barely turns golden, being careful not to let it burn. Meanwhile, in a saucepan over moderate heat, reduce volume of skim milk by half, stirring frequently with a wire whisk, about 8 minutes.

Add garlic-anchovy mixture to milk and continue to cook, stirring with a wooden spoon or whisk until the sauce forms streaks and you can begin to see the bottom of the pan when the sauce is stirred. Keep warm.

Steam broccoli until just tender, about 7 minutes. Pour sauce over and serve.

Serves 4.

Sam's Cooking Tip: Though it's not an exact duplication, you can sometimes simulate the texture of cream by using evaporated milk or evaporated skim milk.

BROCCOLI WITH ROASTED SHALLOTS AND MUSHROOMS

Roasted shallots and mushrooms add another dimension to steamed broccoli.

• 4 large shallots, peeled and halved
• 4 ounces whole mushrooms
• Olive oil spray
• 1 large bunch broccoli, about 11/2 pounds
• 11/2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/4 to 1/3 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Turn oven to 500 degrees. Spray a small baking pan or cast iron skillet with olive oil spray and add shallots and mushrooms. Spray the tops and put in the oven. Cook about 15 minutes, shaking the pan a few times during cooking. Remove when nicely browned all over. Coarsely chop shallots and slice mushrooms.

Meanwhile, cut broccoli into florets, peel stalk and cut into rounds 1/4-inch thick. Put stalk slices in the bottom of a steamer basket in a large saucepan with about 1/2-inch of water. Add florets on top. Cover and put over medium-high heat for 7 minutes.

Put oil in a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat. Add broccoli, shallots, and mushrooms. Season with nutmeg, salt and pepper. Stir a few times until heated through.

Serves 4.

BROCCOLI SOUFFLÉ

Unlike normal soufflés that have a cream sauce base with egg yolks, this soufflé uses only egg whites.

• 1 large bunch broccoli, 11/4 to 11/2 pounds
• Kosher salt
• Butter flavor spray
• 3 tablespoons plain bread crumbs
• 1/2 red bell pepper, roasted, seeded and peeled as in Hot and Sweet Pepper Sauce, and diced
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 3 tablespoons crumbed blue cheese
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 7 egg whites

Peel broccoli stems and coarsely chop as close to the buds of the florets as possible. Break florets into as small pieces as possible.

Put just enough water in a large skillet to cover broccoli. Bring to a boil with 1 teaspoon of salt. Add broccoli and cook, covered, 7 minutes or until tender. Drain and refresh in a colander under cold water. Drain well and puree in food processor.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Spray a 2-quart soufflé dish with butter flavor spray. Dust with breadcrumbs.

In a large bowl, combine broccoli, bell pepper, garlic, cheese, salt and pepper. Put egg whites into the bowl of an electric mixer with a pinch of salt and beat until stiff but not dry.

Stir 1/4 of the egg whites into the broccoli. Then fold in the rest in three stages. Don't over mix. Spoon into the soufflé dish and bake 25 minutes or until the soufflé has risen and is nicely browned.

Serves 4.

QUICK BROCCOLI WITH PASTA

This is a fast and healthful dish to feed four people. Serve it with crusty Italian bread and a simple, light red wine such as a dolcetto or a barbera.

• 1 large bunch broccoli, about 1-1/2 pounds
• 21/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 pound ziti or other short pasta
• 2 ounces sun-dried tomatoes, halved or cut in strips
• 20 black olives (oil-cured preferred), pitted and quartered
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1/4 teaspoon hot pepper flakes
• 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon rind
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Romano cheese plus more for passing at the table

Put a pot with at least 4 quarts of water and a teaspoon of salt on to boil. Peel broccoli stems and cut sticks about 2-inches long, 1/4-inch thick. Separate heads into florets. Rinse in a colander. When water comes to a boil, add broccoli and cook, covered, about 5 minutes or until just tender.

Using a skimmer or strainer, remove broccoli to a wok or large skillet. Season with 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Cover and keep warm. Add another teaspoon of salt to the pot of water and return to a boil. Cook pasta 5 minutes, add tomatoes and cook about 3 or 4 minutes more or until pasta is al dente. Drain well, reserving a few tablespoons of cooking water, and add to the broccoli.

Heat wok over low flame and add olives, oil, hot pepper flakes, lemon rind, remaining 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper and reserved pasta cooking water. Toss well but gently. After a few minutes, toss with cheese and spoon out onto individual soup plates. Pass additional cheese at the table.

Serves 4.

Sam's Cooking Tip: Use the above method for cooking other vegetables that will be mixed with pasta, such as asparagus and hearty greens like kale.