Here’s the dilemma: Though peaches should be picked when they are ripe, ripe peaches won’t hold up to the rigors of transportation, warehousing and sitting on the retailer’s shelf. All that handling beats up those poor ripe peaches pretty badly.Fortunately, growers have developed peaches that can be picked at a riper stage and will hold up for a week or more. And that has made a major improvement in the past few years.

But it’s still important to choose peaches carefully. Don’t buy peaches just because it’s peach season. If the peaches at your supermarket or green grocer aren’t ripe, pass them by and tell the produce manager why. When enough people do that, he or she will get the message. If you live in an area where peaches are grown commercially, buy the local stuff at roadside stands and farmer’s markets. This will encourage growers to grow more. Because shipping and handling are less of a problem when farmers sell their own peaches, your chances of fulfilling that glorious quest will be that much greater

HISTORY

Like so many fruits, the origin of the peach can be traced to ancient China, where it was considered a symbol of long life and immortality. References to the peach can be found in Chinese poetry, paintings and on decorated porcelain. A piece of porcelain with peach blossoms was considered an excellent birthday present, a wish of long life and good health. Whatever its talisman-like qualities, the earliest peaches of China were small, hard and sour.

The peach traveled with traders over the caravan routes to the Near East and was cultivated in Persia long before it reached Europe. Early writers thought it originated in Persia, hence the species name Prunus persica. Spanish explorers brought peaches to the New World - there is some evidence that they came with Columbus - and they could be found growing in Mexico as early as the 1600s. By the late 1700s, Spanish missionaries had established them in California.

The first modern peach variety was the Elberta, allegedly developed from buddings brought from China to the Rumph family in Georgia in the mid 1800s. Named after Elberta Rumph, it became the mainstay of commercial peach production until sometime around World War II. This cling or clingstone variety - one in which the fruit adheres to the pit - has given way to other varieties in recent years, particularly freestone varieties. (Clingstones are used mainly for commercial purposes today.)

WHERE GROWN

The peach is more at home in areas of the world where climates are similar to that of the Mediterranean basin. American growers, especially those in California, have done the most to shape patterns of world production in the 20th century. So not surprisingly, the United States is the largest peach producer in the world and California the leading producing state, growing about 60 percent of all peaches grown commercially.

However, peaches are grown commercially in almost every region of the country. After California, the leading producers are South Carolina, Georgia, New Jersey and Pennsylvania.

Other parts of the world where peaches are grown include Europe, Asia, South Africa, Australia and South America. The vast majority of imported peaches come from Chile, which sells almost 60 percent of its crop to the United States.

VARIETIES

There are two categories of peaches, freestone and clingstone. The freestone is easily separated from the center stone or pit of the fruit, while the clingstone varieties usually leave flesh attached to the pit. Fewer and fewer clingstone varieties can be seen in retail markets these days. Most are freestone or semi-freestone, the latter not as clinging as cling or as free as free, and smaller in size than the freestone varieties.

The season begins with the Crest family. Queen Crest, May Crest and Ray Crest all arrive in the first week in May and are followed by Springcrest a week or so later. May Crest in particular has exceptional flavor and color. Spring Lady in mid May is the first significant variety in the Lady family, noted for their good red color. It is followed by Rich Lady and June Lady. Flavorcrest begins in June. All of the above are semi-freestone.

The popular Redtop ushers in the major freestone varieties. This variety is an excellent shipper with consistently good flavor. Elegant Lady is the No. 1 variety for its good eye appeal, good flavor and long shelf life. The large O’Henry ranks second in popularity. Its yellow flesh is streaked with red, especially near the pit. Coming in between Elegant Lady and O’Henry is a newer variety (actually a combination of those two) called Summer Lady. Though the August-arriving Fairtime has good flavor, it is now used more in processing (mostly frozen) than for eating fresh. Carnival is similar to Fairtime and is a late freestone that may be around into October.Many local varieties have their following. These include the Eastern variety Red Haven, a top cooking and canning peach, and Rio Oso Gem, a favorite for eating out of hand in years past but now relegated to backyard plantings because of its unattractive appearance.

White peaches are becoming more popular at a faster rate than white nectarines. The primary white peach for many years has been the Babcock, which has ten or twelve subvarieties. Newer white peaches to look out for include the White Lady and Sugar Giant.

The primary varieties from Chile are Springcrest, Merrill Gemfree, Flavorcrest, Elegant Lady and O’Henry.

SEASONS

Domestically grown peaches are available from May to mid October. Peak season is in July and August. Chilean peaches begin arriving in November, peak in January and February, and are gone by April.

SELECTION, HANDLING & STORAGE

Select bright, well-rounded fruit with shades of deep yellow under a red blush. If ripe, the fruit should yield to gentle pressure, particularly along the seam. Ripe fruit has a sweet fragrance. Usually if the fruit is brightly colored but firm to moderately hard, it will ripen in two to three days at room temperature. Avoid rock-hard, green fruits or mushy fruits with shriveled skins.

Store peaches, unwashed, at room temperature. Putting them in a paper bag will hasten ripening. Refrigerate when ripe, unwashed, but not for more than a couple of days since extended chilling may rob the fruit of its juice and flavor.

Before using peaches, simply wash in cool water and dry with a paper towel or soft cloth to remove the fuzz - most of which is already removed before you get it by commercial washing.

NUTRITION

Two medium peaches (174 grams, just over 6 ounces) are considered a serving. Though this amount is about 30 grams more than a serving of nectarines and 40 grams more than a serving of plums, all contain about 70 calories. In addition, a serving of peaches contains 19 grams of carbohydrates, 1 gram each of protein and dietary fiber and 20% of the RDA for both vitamin A and C.

Peaches are also a good source of potassium and boron. The latter has been shown to boost estrogen levels in postmenopausal women, help prevent osteoporosis, and stimulate brain activity.

YIELDS

One pound of peaches, 3 medium or 2 large, yields 2 cups of sliced fruit, 1-2/3 cups diced, and 1-1/2 cups pureed.

SAM'S TIP

Put slices of white Babcock peaches in glasses of red wine before dinner. Then have them for dessert.

PREPARATION

The easiest way to pit freestone peaches is to make a cut on the seam all the way around and through the fruit down to the pit. Then twist each half in opposite directions. Clingstones are a bit stickier. It’s best to cut the sections (slices, quarters etc.) right from the whole fruit by slicing down to the pit and removing the desired amount. As with apples, pears and peaches, lemon or other citrus juice retards browning on cut areas.If you got a good deal on peaches only to find out you have more ripe fruit than you can handle, freeze some of it. Halve or slice the fruit and put on sheet trays in the freezer. When solid, put the frozen pieces in a plastic freezer bag.

To peel peaches easily, place the fruit in a strainer and dip them into boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds, or drop them in gently and remove them with a slotted spoon or skimmer. Put into cold water to cool. Then, using a sharp paring knife, peel off the skin.

Spices and seasonings that go well with peaches include almonds, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, coriander, mace, sherry, Marsala, rum, and amaretto.

Don’t think of peaches only as a fresh snack or dessert fruit. Peaches and poultry (quail, Cornish hen, squab, or just a plain old chicken) are a good match. Peaches and pork are another good combination.

PEACH-AMARETTO SKILLET UPSIDE DOWN CAKE

This variation on the familiar pineapple upside-down cake is a snap using an old-fashioned cast-iron skillet.

• 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• Pinch salt
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup low-fat buttermilk
• 1 beaten egg
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 1/2 cup brown sugar
• 1/4 cup amaretto
• 4-1/2 cups peaches, peeled and sliced about 1/2-inch thick

1) In a mixing bowl combine flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. In a mixing cup, combine buttermilk and egg. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2) In a cast-iron skillet or other 9-inch ovenproof skillet, melt butter on top of the stove. Pour half the butter into the buttermilk mixture and add brown sugar to the skillet. Stir and cook sugar and butter over low heat until sugar dissolves. Add amaretto and stir well. Remove from heat.

3) Layer peaches in the skillet, overlapping. Add buttermilk mixture to flour mixture and pour over peaches. Bake about 35 minutes or until a toothpick tester comes out clean. Let cool and invert onto a plate.

Serves 6.

MOM’S CANNED PEACHES

Along with pears, peaches are the fruit that holds up best to canning, especially when processed the way my mother does them. Whichever variety you choose, make sure they are freestone peaches or you’ll spend all day trying to remove the pits from the flesh.6 pounds ripe but still firm freestone peaches

• 2 cups sugar
• 5 cups water
• 3 1-quart canning jars with new lids
• A kettle for processing jars with a wire rack insert

1) Bring a kettle (such as the one in which you’ll later process the peaches) with a few quarts of water to a boil. Drop in peaches (in two batches) for a minute or so and remove. When cool enough to handle, cut peaches in half along the seam, then peel and drop in a basin of cold water. Save 3 of the peach pits.2) In a bowl or plastic bucket, combine sugar and water until sugar dissolves.

3) Put a peach pit in the bottom of each of the three jars and add peach halves, hollow side down, until each jar is filled to within 1/2-inch of the top. Add sugar water.

4) Seal jar tightly, then release cap about 1/4 inch to allow rubber lid to expand during cooking. Put jars in a kettle fitted with wire racks for canning jars. Fill kettle with tepid water to cover jars.

5) Bring water to a boil, covered. Boil gently for 15 minutes. Remove jars and seal tightly. Let cool on a half-inch stack of newspapers (or a similar absorbent cushion) for 48 hours. 

Makes 3 quarts.

Sam’s Cooking Tip: To do this right you should buy a kettle specifically for canning, one that has a wire insert to hold jars in place. As an alternative, you can separate the jars with towels to prevent them from smashing against each other. While you can reuse jars, you should not use previously used lids. Rings or bands should only be reused if not dented or rusted.

GUGINO BELLINI

The Bellini was created at Harry’s Bar in Venice. It’s normally made with peach nectar but this version with Mom’s Canned Peaches is equally good - maybe better.

• 4 or 5 peach halves (depending on size) from Mom’s Canned Peaches
• 1 cup syrup from Mom’s Canned Peaches
• 1 bottle extra dry Champagne
• Grenadine (optional)

1) Combine peach halves and syrup in a blender until thoroughly mixed. You’ll have about 1 cup.2) Pour 1/4 of the peach mixture into each of 4 champagne glasses. Fill each with 4 to 6 ounces of champagne, pouring down the side of the glass. Mix briefly so as not to break up too many bubbles. Add a drop or two of grenadine if desired. 

Serves 4.

Sam’s Cooking Tip: A bone-dry champagne gets lost in this drink which is why I don’t recommend most brut types of Champagne. Also, it’s important that the Champagne (any sparkling wine, really) have enough acidity to cut through the sweetness of the peach puree.

PEACH SALAD

I got this idea from the Greek pavilion at the Fancy Food show in New York a few years ago. The Greeks used canned peaches which isn’t so awful since, more than any other fruit, canned peaches - especially if home canned - approximate, and possibly exceed, the quality of fresh peaches. Serve as a condiment with grilled fish, poultry or lamb.

• 2 large, ripe, freestone peaches, peeled
• 2 tablespoons chopped pimento or roasted red bell peppers
• 1/2-teaspoon fennel seeds
• Large pinch sugar
• 1 tablespoon fruity, mild vinegar such as pineapple, mango or raspberry
• 1 tablespoon canola oil
• Salt to taste

1) Cut peaches into wedges and put into a mixing bowl with pimento

2) Put remaining ingredients in a large cup and mix well. Add to peaches and toss gently. Let sit about 30 minutes before serving.

Serves 2 to 3.

PEACH ICE CREAM WITH ASTI SPUMANTE

The secret to this lower (as opposed to low) fat ice cream is to make a creme anglais (with milk) instead of just dumping in heavy cream into the recipe. True, it’s technically an ice milk, but your taste buds won’t know the difference.2 large ripe peaches

• 1 cup Asti Spumante
• 4 egg yolks
• 2/3 sugar
• 2 cups milk, heated but not scalded
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1/4 teaspoon almond extract

1) Put peaches in a heavy-bottomed saucepan of boiling water for 30 seconds to a minute. Remove and peel off skin. Coarsely chop into 1/2-inch chunks. You should have about 2 cups. Put in a bowl and pour Asti Spumante over. Marinate 2 hours or more.

2) Wipe out the pan used for the peaches and in it mix yolks and sugar with a whisk until light colored. Gradually pour in milk a little at a time stirring constantly. When all the milk has been added, put saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir with a wooden spoon until the mixture thickens enough to lightly coat the back of the spoon, about 12 minutes. Do not let boil. Continue stirring for a minute after mixture is removed from the heat. Add vanilla and almond extracts. Cool.

3) Put milk mixture and drained peaches in an ice cream maker and follow manufacturer’s directions. Or, pour into a shallow pan and put in the freezer until frozen. 

Serves 4.