ALL ABOUT WINTER SQUASH

This information first appeared in my book
EAT FRESH, STAY HEALTHY. For in depth articles about fruits and vegetables, with recipes, you can subscribe to my free monthly newsletter.

With recipes for
Stuffed Winter Squash
Squash Ravioli With Parmesan-Sage Cream
Baked Acorn Squash Rings
Pumpkin Risotto 

We call them winter squash. However, they start appearing in late summer and sometimes hang around all year long. But whether acorn, hubbard, butternut, or any other squash with a hard shell, they’re delicious and more nutritious than their soft-skinned summer cousins. More versatile too. Ever had pumpkin ravioli?

Most people have grown up with a pretty one-dimensional view of winter squash. Make that two dimensional. In the fall and winter, it’s jack-o-lanterns for Halloween, then pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving. And that’s about it. Oh, we might have an acorn squash here and there. But that was about it. How limiting our winter squash repertoire is! The numerous varieties of winter squash available today can be used in everything from soup to dessert.

HISTORY

Yet another gift from the New World, squash were growing in the Americas over 3000 years before Columbus. Members of the Cucurbitaceae family which includes melons, cucumbers and gourds, squash developed in two areas of the Western Hemisphere (though there are a few Asian varieties such as winter melon and bitter melon). Winter squash originated in the Andes of South America.

The word squash comes from the Narragansett Indian word askootasquash for "eaten raw." Indians baked winter squash in hot ashes and sweetened them with maple syrup or honey. Squash seeds were toasted or ground for pastes and hard shells used for containers.

Squash, particularly winter varieties, have benefited from the greater emphasis on indigenous products and regional American cuisine with dishes like sautéed shredded winter squash with ginger and garlic, pumpkin creme brulee and pumpkin risotto.

That has helped to overcome the natural aversion to the blandness of most squash. So too have the ethnic influences with squash recipes coming from Japan and Africa to name a few. The daunting size of some squash, notably the hubbard and banana, has been overcome by breeding smaller sizes and retailers who are selling slices or sections of larger squash.

WHERE GROWN:

Florida is the largest squash-producing state followed closely by California. Georgia and New Jersey are also large squash-producing states. Other producing states include Texas, Massachusetts, New York, Michigan, Oregon, and South Carolina.

VARIETIES:

Hard-shelled squash has thicker, harder skins and more firm, fully developed seeds than summer squash. This category contains more variety in color, size, shape and flavor than the soft-shelled summer varieties. They range in size from a small acorn squash, which can weigh not much more than a Rome apple, to the banana squash that can weigh 70 pounds.

Acorn squash (also called table queen, Des Moines and Danish) has an acorn shape with distinct furrows. It is mostly dark green, though there is a golden acorn which can range from yellow to orange in color. (Some green acorn squash will have yellow or orange blotches and, in fact, this is desirable as long as it does not cover more than half the surface.) The flesh of both is yellow-orange and the flavor is mild and sweet. More flavorful is the light tan, bell-shaped butternut squash (also called an African bell) with a deeper orange flesh.

The behemoths of the hard-shelled squashes are the banana and hubbard. The banana is tan and tubular with tapered ends. The flesh is bright yellow, hearty and moist. The Hubbard has a bumpy, thick skin with golden, bluish-gray or green color. The flesh is rich and slightly sweeter than the banana.

Somewhat newer squash include the delicata, also called a sweet potato or bohemian squash. It is somewhat cylindrical, though the base may flare out some. The yellow shell has furrows with green stripes and reddish-brown mottling. The flesh is pale yellow-orange, the aroma and mild flavor reminiscent of fresh corn. The sweet dumpling looks like a more squat cousin to the delicata with a pale yellow, green-streaked outside coloring though the flesh is a deeper, richer orange. The flavor is exceptionally sweet.

The Japanese or kabocha squash is round with a flattened top and a dark green color punctuated by white streaks. The deep orange flesh is flavorful but less moist than most other squash, akin to the fluffiness of a Russet potato. Though Calabaza is the generic Spanish term for squash (usually from Mexico or the Caribbean), what is available commercially under that name is usually round and tan with a mild yellow-orange flesh.

Spaghetti squash is noted for its cooked flesh that turns into strands, like spaghetti, when scooped out. It is large, yellow an oval, looking more like a melon than a squash. The Mediterranean squash looks like a large butternut 8 to 10 pounds on the outside with a similar flesh

One of the more dramatic-looking winter squashes is the turban squash which looks as if it is wrapped in layers. It is mostly red-orange with green and white accents. Though most turban squash, particularly the larger varieties, are better to look at than to eat, the smaller, dark green buttercup has a nutty, sweet, deep orange flesh with a mealy texture that is good for pies.

Pumpkins that make great jack-o-lanterns don’t make great eating. They’re stringy and tasteless. Look for smaller varieties. Mini pumpkins that can fit into your hand are great for stuffing. Larger pumpkin varieties good for pies and the like include Sugar Pie or Sweetie Pie, Small Sugar or New England Pie, Sugar Baby, Lumina (white skin but yellow flesh), Autumn Gold, Prize Winner (very large), Spirit, Spookie, Triple Treat (for carving and pies) and. The Golden Nugget is also a pumpkin-like squash with a round, orange ridged shell and slightly sweet flesh.

SEASONS:

Some winter squash is available year round but the season runs from August through March with the peak period from October to December.

SELECTION, HANDLING & STORAGE:

Winter squash is more difficult to select than summer squash because defects are not as apparent. However, choosing a squash that is heavy for its size is a good indicator of quality. That means greater moisture and less of a tendency to be dry and stringy. Shells should be hard with no cracks or soft spots but the skin should not be shiny. Winter squash should also be true to its color. Butternut squash that is deep orange instead of light tan on the outside, for example, should be avoided. Winter squash should not be refrigerated unless cut. The best temperature range is 50 to 55 degrees with relatively low humidity. It be stored away from light and with good ventilation. Kept this way, winter squash will last one to two months.

NUTRITION:

Like summer squash, there is some variation with winter squash. In general, a 100 gram (3.5 ounce) baked serving contains 63 calories, 15 grams of carbohydrates, 2 grams each of protein and dietary fiber, 82% of the RDA for vitamin A, 21% for vitamin C, 4% for iron and about 3 % for calcium. Winter squash is a good source of potassium but its limited supply of folic acid is lost in cooking.

YIELD:

Two pounds of winter squash, when peeled and trimmed, will yield about 4 cups chopped or 4 servings.

TIP:

Large pumpkins, hollowed out are great containers for a winter stew.

PREPARATION:

Winter squash is not usually peeled before cooking though there is no reason why it can’t be. The best way to accomplish this is to take a butternut squash, for example, halve it lengthwise, then put it cut side down on a work surfaced. Peel the skin with a sturdy vegetable peeler. For rounder squash, leaving them whole makes more sense before peeling. Just make sure the pumpkin is stable. If not, cut a slice off from the bottom to keep it from rolling.

Once peeled, halve the squash and remove the seeds and any stringy fiber. Then halve again and cut into cubes or other desired shapes for steaming, boiling or baking. Though its not as commonly done with winter squash as with summer squash, there’s no reason why winter squash can’t be cut into small pieces (or shredded) and sautéed until tender. A splash of stock or water may be needed if the pan dries out before the squash is completely cooked.

More commonly, the squash is steamed or baked, unpeeled. For an acorn squash, for example, halve lengthwise, remove the seeds and put it, cut side down in a shallow baking ban with a 1/2-inch of water. It will be cooked in a 375-degree oven in about 45 to 55 minutes, depending on size. Steaming takes about the same amount of time. But microwaving (uncovered at full power) about 10 minutes.

After cooking squash this way, particularly acorn and butternut varieties, the flesh can be scooped out for purees or the skin can be peeled (a lot easier than if raw). But we have seen cooks puree an butternut squash, skin and all, that had been cooked very soft.

The cavities of some squash are perfect for stuffing. Acorn offers the most variety in size and you can probably get ones small enough to allow two servings when the halves are stuffed. Delicata also has a good cavity for stuffing.

Seasonings for winter squash are similar to what goes well with sweet potatoes - brown sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, clove and ginger (fresh, powdered or candied). Cooked garlic adds a nutty mellowness and Chinese five-spice powder an exotic note. The exception is spaghetti squash which, in many ways, can be treated like a pasta with the same kinds of sauces, especially tomato sauce.

To toast the seeds of winter squash, rinse them well in a colander and dry. Spread them on an oiled sheet pan and bake at 250 degrees for 1 hour, raising the temperature to 400 degrees during the last 5 minutes to brown lightly. Salt if desired and store in an airtight container.

STUFFED WINTER SQUASH

This is a delicious main course for vegetarians at holiday time. But don’t let them have all the fun. Meateaters will love it too.

2 large acorn or small butternut squash
Salt and pepper to taste
1 6-ounce package wild rice
4 cups vegetable stock or water
1 tablespoon butter or oil
8 ounces mushrooms, any combination of domestic and wild, sliced
1 cup chopped onions
1 rib celery, finely chopped
1/2 cup toasted nuts, any combination of pine nuts, hazelnuts, walnuts or pecans, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 tablespoons fresh herbs such as thyme, chives or marjoram, chopped
1 whole egg and 1 egg white

1) Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut squash in half, lengthwise, scoop out the seeds and put it in a roasting pan, cut side down, with 1/2-inch of water. Bake about 40 minutes or until just tender. Remove, season with salt and pepper and lower oven to 350 degrees.

2) Meanwhile, rinse wild rice and cook in stock or water about 45 minutes or until tender. Drain and put in a mixing bowl. Heat butter or oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add mushrooms onions and celery. Cook until mushrooms wilt and onion softens, about 5 minutes. Add to wild rice along with nuts, parsley, herbs, salt and pepper. Add eggs and mix well.

3) Put stuffing into squash cavities, mounding slightly. Cover with foil and bake in a lightly greased baking dish 25 minutes or until heated through. Serves 4.

SQUASH RAVIOLI WITH PARMESAN-SAGE CREAM

A ravioli crimper which looks like a ridged pizza cutter makes the job of making ravioli a lot easier.

1 to 11/2 pound pumpkin or other winter squash
1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups hot skim milk
1 tablespoon fresh sage, finely chopped or 2 teaspoons dried
6 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese plus additional cheese for passing
12 sheets fresh lasagna noodles, 5 by 7 inches each, enough for 36 ravioli
Cornmeal

1) Cut pumpkin in half, remove seeds and place, cut side down, in a baking pan with 1/2 inch water. Bake in a pre-heated 350 degree oven about 40 minutes or until very tender. (Microwaving takes less than half the time.) Scoop out flesh and puree with nutmeg, salt and pepper. You should have about 11/4 cups.

2) Meanwhile, put butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and stir a few minutes. Add milk slowly and bring to a bare simmer, whisking constantly. Cook until thickened and you can no longer taste any flour, about 10 minutes. Add sage, cheese and salt and pepper to taste. Remove from heat and put plastic wrap on the surface to prevent skin from forming.

3) Spoon out pumpkin puree in 2 rows across and 3 rows down on one lasagna sheet using 1 teaspoon per ravioli. Brush another sheet with water. Gently put the second sheet on the first, wet side down. Run a ravioli cutter down the middle between the two rows and then across, sealing each ravioli with a 3/8-inch border of dough all around. Without a ravioli cutter, press down with the side of your hand along the rows between the fillings, removing any air pockets. Seal with your fingers and cut ravioli free with a knife Then crimp with the tines of a fork. Repeat with remaining pasta and filling until you have 36 ravioli. (To prevent sticking put ravioli, as you make them, on a baking sheet sprinkled with cornmeal.)

4) Bring a pot with 4 quarts of water and 1 teaspoon salt to a boil over high heat. While water heats, gently reheat cream sauce. Add ravioli to cooking water, stir and cook, covered, about 3 or 4 minutes. All ravioli should rise to the surface. Drain.

5) Put half the cream sauce into the pasta pot over medium-low heat and add the ravioli. Add remaining sauce and gently stir, coating all the ravioli. Serve at once with more cheese passed at the table. Serves 4.

Sam’s Cooking Tip: Fresh lasagna sheets are now available in many places where fresh pasta is sold. If the sheets you buy are larger than those indicated in the recipe, reduce the total number of sheets needed to get 36 ravioli.

BAKED ACORN SQUASH RINGS

We wouldn’t be at all surprised if the kids suddenly started eating squash after this way of presenting it.

1 medium acorn squash, about 11/2 pounds each
1/3 cup maple syrup mixed with 2 tablespoons bourbon or rum
Kosher salt to taste

1) Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Trim ends of squash and cut each crosswise into 4 rings of equal thickness (about 3/4-inch thick). Remove seeds and stringy material.

2) Put rings on a shallow baking pan. Add enough water to come halfway up the sides of the rings. Bake about 30 minutes, turning once, or until rings are just tender. Pour off any remaining water.

3) Brush one side with maple syrup mixture and season with salt. Bake 5 minutes. Repeat on the other side. Serves 4.

Sam’s Cooking Tip: My wife likes to eat the skin and all with this dish. You may want to cook it a little longer if you plan on doing that yourself. Also, wash the skin well before cutting the rings.

PUMPKIN RISOTTO

Pumpkin may seem like an all-American vegetable, but the Italians do wondrous things with it as well as other winter squash, all of which they call zucca. (They also do some interesting things with turkey, but that's another story.)

About 7 to 8 cups chicken stock
1 tablespoon butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 cups arborio rice
1 1/2 cups cooked butternut, acorn or cooked winter squash, cut in 3/8-inch cubes
6 sage leaves, minced
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
4 sage leaves for garnish

1) Heat stock to a bare simmer in a saucepan. Heat butter in a large, heavy bottom saucepan next to it on the stove. Add onion to the butter and sauté over medium heat until it turns translucent. Add rice, stir and add 11/2 cups of stock.

2) When the rice has absorbed most of the liquid. Add another 11/2 cups stock. Add another 11/2 cups in the same fashion along with the minced sage and squash. Add another 11/2 cups stock, salt and pepper to taste.

3) After most of the stock has been absorbed, taste rice. It should be firm but tender. If too firm, add some or all of the remaining stock, again tasting to discover when it is just right. Leave the risotto a little runny before you add the cheese so it will have a nice creamy texture.

4) Dish into soup plates and stick a sage leaf in the middle of each plate. Serve immediately. Serves 4 as a main course, 6 as an appetizer.

Sam's Cooking Tip: The old rule of thumb used to be that to make authentic risotto you had to add only small amounts of liquid to rice and stir constantly. But you can get away with less stirring and larger amounts of liquid for each addition.